I Top 100 di Wine Entusiast

I TOP 100 DI WINE ENTUSIAST

 

Ecco di seguito lennesima classifica mondiale, stilata dai degustatori di Wine Entusiast. Conosco bene Monica Lerner, simpaticissima e brava referente per lEuropa di questa prestigiosa rivista, ma le riflessioni che mi sovvengo sono inerenti al fatto che :

in nessuna guida di settore italiana compaiono gli stessi vini, se non in alcuni casi;

in nessuna di queste Bibbie internazionali compaiono gli stessi vini, basti guardare per l Italia, i casi si riducono a ben poco;

ed allora mi chiedo e vi chiedo, cari amici lettori : come ci dobbiamo orientare in questa giungla mediatica, che diventato il mondo del vino ? Lideale sarebbe poterli degustare tutti i vini citati dalle varie testate, ma credo diventi impossibile per la difficile reperibilit dei vini e per la spesa a cui si andrebbe incontro. Ed allora ci accontentiamo di spulciare tra i vari elenchi, andando a pizzicare di tanto in tanto quelle bottiglie che piu ci incuriosiscono, e che sono abbordabili alle nostre sempre piu magre finanze.

Buona lettura

Roberto Gatti

 

If the wines on this list are not Best Buys and are not Cellar Selections, then what exactly are

they? In short, they represent the most diverse and dynamic segment of the wine industry. They

are wines that offer extraordinary quality at prices that still represent affordable luxury. They

are mostly wines that can be consumed over the near term, although some will undoubtedly benefit

from cellaring.

In compiling our annual Top 100 lists, we go beyond simple evaluation of numeric scores and pricing.

We also consider availability, buzz and balance. While availability is straightforward, buzz refers

to a wines newsworthiness or excitement factor, and whether it represents notable trends in the

wine market. This years Number One wine is a prime example, combining high quality (95 points)

with reasonable price and availability ($42, 475 cases), but then adding to its intrigue are a superstar

winemakers own label, a vineyard designation and an underappreciated variety from

California.

Balance means that within the limits of what we tasted over the past year, weve tried to include

wines that not only represent many different regions and grape varieties, but also vary in style.

Youll find wines from 11 countries and more than 20 varieties, sparkling and still wines, table,

dessert and fortified wines. One of the things we value most in the wine world is diversity, and this

is one way of applauding it.

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Our Editors Pick the Must-Have Wines of 2008.

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The Enthusiast 100 of 2008

95 Failla 2006 Phoenix Ranch Syrah

(Napa Valley); $42. An awesome

Syrah that proves that, while size isnt everything,

it does matter. A major league wine, brilliantly

packed with currant, black cherry, licorice and

pepper flavors whose power is hard to exaggerate.

For all that, the wine never loses its balance and

sense of proportion. So good now, you wont be

able to keep your hands off it, but it should hold

for six years.

97 San Vicente 2005 Rioja; $65. Talk

about a wine that makes you take notice.

This is simply great modern Rioja. The nose is

creamy but honest, with black fruit, mocha and

finely tanned leather. The palate gives the whole

range of berry and tree fruits, with expansive tannins

and just enough core acidity to make it stunning.

Ultra stylish and delicious; another huge

success for the Eguren family that owns San

Vicente and other Rioja properties. Imported by

Fine Estates From Spain.

96 Chteau Lynch-Bages 2005 Pauillac;

$115. Classic Lynch-Bages with

just a bit of extra power and richness. While the

tannins are structured, it is the velvety fruit that

rolls around the mouth that is the most dominant

character. It is coming together into a wine that

will be big and dense, but never over the top.

Imported by Chteau Lynch-Bages.

94 Alma Rosa 2006 Chardonnay

(Santa Barbara County); $20.

Starts with an opulent, inviting aroma of smoky

honey, vanilla, tangerines, Meyer lemons, yellow

apricots, green apples and minerals. In the mouth,

the flavors are very similaran explosion of fruits,

spices and toast. Just a tremendous wine, but

for all the volume and complexity, its completely

balanced.

95 Avignonesi 2004 Desiderio (Cortona);

$50. Desiderio is an outstandingly

delicious Merlot from Cortona with a soft,

yielding personality and loads of sweet cherryberry

nuances. The wine boasts excellent complexity

thanks to the playful notes of peppermint,

herbs, root beer and cola that give it undying persistency

and intensity. Imported by Dalla Terra.

94 Poets Leap 2006 Riesling (Columbia

Valley); $20. Poets Leap is the

Long Shadows collaboration with Armin Diel of

Germanys Schlossgut Diel. Ripe pear, melon and

white peach mingle with a streak of honey. Old

Yakima Valley vines contribute concentration,

adding herb and mineral to the fruit. The residual

sugar is about 1.4%, keeping the alcohol just under

13%, with acids that keep flavors buoyant and

precise.

95 Maurodos 2004 San Roman

(Toro); $50. About as good as it gets in

terms of a powerful, fully oaked modern wine that

still guards its core identity while offering plenty of

straightforward drinking pleasure. San Roman in

2004 is a high-speed train with agile fruit and bracing

acidity more dominating than, say, tannic

might or alcoholic heat. Among the brave new

world of modern wines from Toro this is one of the

very best. 6,500 cases produced. Imported by

Grapes of Spain.

94 Niepoort 2005 Redoma (Douro);

$39. While its certainly dense, black and

brooding, this wines dominant tannins also give a

base for exciting, luscious black fruit flavors.

Herbal, pepper, jelly and juicy fruit flavors, speak

of the strength of the Douro. Imported by European

Cellars.

95 Goldschmidt 2005 Vyborny Vineyard

Single Vineyard Selection

Cabernet Sauvignon (Alexander Valley);

$65. Cabernet collectors who look beyond Napa

Valley should be aware of this wine. Its an important

addition to the Alexander Valley pantheon, a

densely layered young wine. Shows brilliant red

stone fruit, cassis, cola, date nut bread, mocha and

tangerine zest flavors gorgeously lavished with the

vanilla and smoky caramel of oak. Just delicious

now, and should slowly spread its wings for many

years.

94 Chteau Coutet 2005 Barsac; $40.

Surprisingly dry, this has richness rather

than sweetness, and intense, powerful botrytis.

The honey is intensely perfumed, along with

baked apples and spice. Certainly a long-aging

wine.

97 Talley 2005 Rosemarys Vineyard

Pinot Noir (Arroyo Grande Valley);

$70. This is a great 2005 Pinot Noir, the

best ever from Talley. The wine somehow combines

huge ripe fruit with delicacy. It floods the

mouth with profound currant, cherry pie, licorice,

cola, raspberry, cocoa and vanilla flavors, yet feels

light and silky, and is thoroughly dry. Thats the

magic of Pinot Noir. You can enjoy this small production

wine now, and it should develop additional

complexities for 10 years.

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The Enthusiast 100 of 2008

94 Treana 2006 Mer Soleil Vineyard

Viognier-Marsanne (Central

Coast); $25. Treana has enjoyed great success

with this blend of Viognier and Marsanne, which is

one of the best Rhne-style white wines in California.

The main reason is the source of the grapes.

The vineyard, owned by the Wagners of Caymus,

is stellar. The 06 is as rich and crisply acidic as

ever, with fantastically complex, honeyed tropical

fruit, apricot and floral flavors that taste like they

have a touch of botrytis.

94 Schloss Gobelsburg 2006 Heiligenstein

Riesling (Kamptal); $34.

The volcanic soils of the Heiligenstein vineyard

give intense ripe fruits, rich minerality and

supreme elegance. The acidity steals in, a wisp of

delicious fresh fruits and spring perfumes. This is a

classic wine from a top Riesling year. Imported by

Michael Skurnik Wines.

95 Podere LAione 2004 Salve

(Toscana); $54. This is an expertly

extracted and penetrating Sangiovese-based wine

(with a small percentage of other grapes mixed in)

that boasts an absolutely irresistible nose. It is generous

and full, sweet and succulent and will definitely

please now or in 10 years. Black cherries

and chocolate are the main themes, with coffee

and chewy tannins in the mouth. An exciting discovery

from a relatively unknown estate. Imported

by Morgan Import LLC.

95 Astrales 2005 Ribera del Duero;

$60. This is a huge and impressive step

up from the 2003 Astrales, which was fine but not

at this level. Here were talking about color, bouquet,

palate feel, intense flavors, finish, you name

it. Its pure, ultratasty, chocolaty, smooth and pleasurable.

Astrales is the complete package and a

wine to watch. Imported by Grapes of Spain.

94 O. Fournier 2004 Alfa Crux (Uco

Valley); $45. Talk about a deep, luscious

wine. The bouquet emits a magnetic blend

of chocolate cake, fine leather and berry marmalade,

while the midsection is downright delicious

but also very pure and natural despite the

wine seeing 20 months of new oak. ACrux catches

and holds every note, and it should age well for

another 5 to 8 years. Imported by Jorge Ordoez

Selections.

94 Chteau Labegorce Margaux

2005 Margaux; $45. New wood,

sweet fruit, blackberry and plum skin flavors are all

here in this round, ripe wine, with its soft, dusty

tannins and delicious fresh acidity. This property

has certainly joined the big league in Margaux.

93 Beringer 2004 Alluvium Red Table

Wine (Knights Valley); $30. This

shows wonderfully layered, complex flavors, in

addition to great structure. Thoroughly dry, with

rich, fine tannins, it flatters with red and black currant,

red cherry, milk chocolate, licorice, root beer,

vanilla, dusty spice and smoky oak flavors. Luscious

now and through 2010.

94 Dutton Estate 2006 Karmen

Isabella Pinot Noir (Russian River

Valley); $32. This is one of the palest Pinots of

the vintage, so translucent, you can hardly believe

its power. A blend of various Dutton Ranch vineyards

the result is serious and fabulous, a complex

wine with cherry, cola and spice flavors and a luxuriously

silky texture. This is textbook, world class

RRV Pinot from a very great vintage.

94 Foxen 2007 Tinaquaic Vineyard

Chardonnay (Santa Maria Valley);

$32. This bottling by veteran Foxen offers one of

the starkest, most appealing choices available in

California Chardonnay. Far from a superripe buttery

monster, its a lean, elegant machine. With

vibrant acidity and a mineral undergirding, it

offers rich flavors of citrus fruits and rind and

yeasty, Champagne-like lees. Editors Choice.

96 Dr. Loosen 2006 Erdener Prlat

Riesling Auslese (Mosel-Saar-

Ruwer); $42/375 ml. Wow. This gorgeous

dessert-style auslese explodes from the glass in a

cavalcade of sweet fruit and spice. Honeyed

peaches and dried apricots are most prominent,

but shadings of cinnamon and allspice give complexity,

while crisp acids provide impeccable balance

on the long finish. Delicious now, this wine

should easily evolve for up to 40 years. Imported

by Loosen Bros. USA.

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The Enthusiast 100 of 2008

95 Iron Horse 2002 Blanc de Blancs

(Green Valley); $38. The virtues of

this 100% Chardonnay are its elegance, cleanliness,

brightness and the sheer pleasure it offers.

Its so refined and complex, offering flavors of

Meyer lemons, Kaffir limes, brioche and smoky

vanilla that change endlessly in the glass. Just fabulous,

and a terrifically versatile food wine.

95 Betz Family Winery 2005 Clos de

Betz Red Wine (Columbia Valley);

$40. The 2005 Clos de Betz explodes from the

glass with profound scents of pipe tobacco, violets,

cherries and clove. Immediately supple and

silky, this delicious blend of 56% Merlot, 19%

Cabernet Sauvignon, 16% Malbec and 9% Cabernet

Franc offers more complexity than any Clos de

Betz to date. Silky, tightly packed fruit flavors are

seamlessly blended, with berries, currants and

cherries galore. The tannins have been buffed to a

fine lustre.

93 Peter Franus 2007 Sauvignon

Blanc (Carneros); $22. There arent

too many Sauvignon Blancs from Carneros, but

judging from this beauty, the grape thrives there.

In the right hands, of course. This ones from great

vineyards, including Truchards. Its a magnificent

wine in the white Bordeaux style, rich and lush in

mineral-laden gooseberry, honeysuckle, white

peach, Asian pear and lemongrass flavors, with a

vibrant edge of tangy pepper spice.

92 Graf Hardegg 2006 Vom Schloss

R e s e r v e G r n e r Ve l t l i n e r

(Niedersterreich); $25. An impressive, powerful

pepper- and yellow fruit-flavored wine, which

has been given a considerable depth of flavor by

the wood fermentation and lees aging. The balance

is great. It is a wine that shows class and aging

potential. Imported by Frederick Wildman &

Sons, Ltd.

94 Dry Creek Vineyard 2005 Beeson

Ranch Zinfandel (Dry Creek Valley);

$34. With a splash of Petite Sirah, this Zin is

dark and exceedingly powerful in blackberry and

cherry fruit, with complex notes of dark chocolate,

licorice, Chinese five-spice and white pepper. A

dramatic wine that calls for dramatic food.

95 Poggio Nardone 2001 Riserva

(Brunello di Montalcino); $60. A

liquid lullaby more than a wine, this Brunello

caresses and smoothes over your senses with

amazing intensity and harmonious aromas of

cherry-chocolate fudge, almond paste, ginger, balsamic

notes, blueberry pie, firewood and vanilla.

Theres a shroud of cedar and cherry fruit within

the wines unwavering structure and a seemingly

endless finish. Imported by Romano Brands.

94 Quinta do Vallado 2005 Reserva

(Douro); $50. A powerhouse of a wine

that promises huge fruit flavors, this is a time

bomb of richness, which will break through those

dark tannins and the closed, dense texture.

Imported by Quintessential Wines.

93 Frankland Estate 2004 Isolation

Ridge Vineyard Shiraz (Frankland

River); $30. This is the sort of Shiraz that forces

tasters to re-examine their view of the variety as

produced in Australia. It starts off with powerful

aromas of cracked pepper and floral notes evocative

of violets, then delivers explosively spicy flavors

of pepper and licorice cushioned by ripe

blackberries and a rich, supple texture. Its the best

of New and Old Worlds. Drink 20102020 plus.

Imported by USA Wine West.

96 Chateau Ste. Michelle 2006 Ethos

Late Harvest White Riesling

(Columbia Valley); $40. This is just this side of

unctuous, a decadently ripe and rich late harvest

Riesling. The residual sugar is at 23%, the alcohol

a moderate 8%, and the balance impeccable, with

a buoyant underpinning to the intense sweetness.

It avoids sugary granularity as well, offering seamless,

concentrated fruit that piles on flavors of

peach, apricot, banana, mango, papaya and melon

in wild profusion, trailing into sweet tea and honey.

Apart from the winerys Single Berry Select Trockenbeerenauslese

project with Ernie Loosen, this is

the best dessert wine made in Washington.

94 Novy Cellars 2006 Rosellas Vineyard

Syrah (Santa Lucia Highlands);

$33. This dramatic and stunningly rich

Syrah shows depth, power and ripely smooth,

finely ground tannins that make it drinkable now.

Black currants, licorice, mocha, violets, mushu

plum sauce, black pepper and Provenal herbs fascinate

as the wine changes in the glass. Drink now

through 2010.

95 Arrowood 2005 Rserve Spciale

Chardonnay (Sonoma County);

$35. Rich and satisfying, this opulent Chardonnay

dazzles with sheer deliciousness. Master winemaker

Richard Arrowood has pulled out all the

stops on this Burgundian-style wine. The flavors,

of pineapple custard, lemon meringue, green

apple butter, crme brle and gingersnap cookie,

are balanced by perfect acidity. This is by

far Arrowoods greatest Chardonnay in recent

memory.

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The Enthusiast 100 of 2008

93 Abelis Carthago 2004 Lui Selection

(Toro); $27. The Lui & William

bodega is behind this outstanding Tempranillo

from Toro. The wine shows a brilliant violet tint in

front of intense, inky aromas of black cherry and

chocolate cake. The palate is superripe and bucks

like a bronco; the tannins are dense and form

titanic structure, and the finish of coffee and spice

hints at a fine cigar. Its a huge load at 15%, so be

prepared. Imported by The Ravensvale Group.

95 Chteau Guiraud 2005 Sauternes;

$65. Typical of the huge power of

Guiraud, this is one of the richest Sauternes in

2005. The wine is rich and intense, the dry edge of

botrytis just dominating the sweetness. Flavors of

honey, almonds and peaches give the wine extra

complexity.

95 Podere Sapaio 2004 Sapaio (Bolgheri

Superiore); $66. Not bad for a

first attempt. This is a thick, dark wine of almost

impenetrable extraction and mature fruit notes of

black cherry and black currant. Its aromas are

painted in broad brush strokes and invoke roasted

espresso bean, black chocolate and smoked game.

It has an outstanding mouthfeel, with voluptuous

but solid tannins and enormous length. Drink after

2015. Imported by Vinifera Imports.

93 Domaine Luneau-Papin 1995 Le L

dOr de Pierre Luneau (Muscadet

Svre Et Maine); $32. Its an extraordinary

wine that still tastes so fresh after 13 years, but for

a Muscadet its almost unbelievable. Yet, here is

this citrus and white currant flavored wine that

still shows high acidity and liveliness as well as a

depth of texture that has come during its aging.

Probably at its peak now. Imported by

Louis/Dressner Selections.

92 Clos de los Siete 2006 Uco Valley;

$18. Never in its young history has the

Clos 7 blend tasted this good right away. The 06

shows excellent young aromas of charcoal, black

pepper and blackberry. The palate preserves that

pepper and coffee blackness as it strides across

ripe, satisfying blackberry and cassis flavors. Its

45% Malbec and then smaller amounts of Merlot,

Cabernet Sauvignon and Syrah. Made by Michel

Rolland and the other owners of the Clos de los

Siete vineyards. Imported by Dourthe USA.

95 Kynsi 2005 Stone Corral Vineyard

Pinot Noir (Edna Valley); $45. An

enormously opulent wine, brimming with gobs of

red cherries, currants, mocha, clove, cinnamon

and pepper flavors. Impresses for the lushness and

integrity of the structure. Brilliant wine, just

gorgeous, a real crowd-pleaser. With its recent

track record, Kynsi enters the front ranks of California

Pinot Noir producers.

94 Gary Farrell 2005 Westside Farms

Chardonnay (Russian River Valley);

$38. This is a single-vineyard Chard grown

on Westside Road, in the heart of the northern

valleys Pinot country. Its a very elaborated wine,

high in acidity, showing tiers of tart green apple,

Kaffir lime, pear, smoky oak and Champagne-like

lees and brioche flavors. Just great, and should

hold for six years or more.

94 Louis Jadot 2005 Epenots Premier

Cru (Pommard); $58. A dark-fruited

wine, with layers of wild strawberries, red currants

and enticing perfumed acidity. Thats the outward

show; inside this is a dense wine, with dark tannins

and a firm heart, which will mature over decades.

Imported by Kobrand.

96 Leonetti Cellar 2006 Merlot

(Columbia Valley); $65. This bright,

aromatic, vivid wine opens with a bowlful

of berries and cherries. There is plenty of acid

under the ripe fruit, which takes center stage

at the moment. The significant addition of

Carmenre (from the Seven Hills vineyard) adds

black pepper to the engaging mix of flavors.

Despite its youth, the flavors persist for a remarkably

long finish.

95 J Vineyards & Winery 2000 Vintage

Brut (Russian River Valley); $50. A

great California bubbly, right up at the top. Its

unusual for a sparkling wine house to hold back

their basic vintage brut this long, but J did, and

consumers benefit. The wine has some bottle

age, and is softly picking up nutty, dried fruit, floral

and yeasty notes. Enormously complex, it

should continue to develop for many years.

94 Bella 2005 Lily Hill Estate Zinfandel

(Dry Creek Valley); $36. If you

want to understand the essence of Dry Creek Valley

Zinfandel, taste this wine. Its absolutely classic.

Shows the regions balance, power and elegance.

From the wild blackberry, raspberry, fig and tangerine

zest fruit, to the clove, white pepper and

anise spices, to the fabulously rich tannic structure,

this is great, world-class Zinfandel. The high

alcohol feels absolutely natural.

92 Marqus de Cceres 2001 Gran

Reserva (Rioja); $35. Might this be

the best wine Marqus de Cceres has produced?

The vintage is one of Spains greatest, and gran

reserva is supposed to be Rioja in its loftiest form.

So indulge in this beautys rock-solid structure,

lovely violet and raspberry aromas, and long, stout

finish. Best from 20122018. Imported by Vineyard

Brands.

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The Enthusiast 100 of 2008

95 San Giusto a Rentennano 2004

Percarlo (Toscana); $70. Percarlo is

an outstandingly intense and complex Sangiovese

that is true to its Tuscan roots. Aromas are wide

and penetrating and span the gamut of balsam

possibilities, voluptuous fruit, lead pencil and

spice. It is round and very fragrant in the mouth

with plush smoothness and soft extraction.

Imported by Marc de Grazia Selections.

93 Signorello 2006 Seta (Napa Valley);

$25. Signorello was a pioneer of

producing white Meritage-style wines modeled

after the Graves region of Bordeaux. This 06, a

blend of Smillon and Sauvignon Blanc, is very

rich. It has the creamy textural weight of Chardonnay,

yet the flavor profile is of lime pie, figs, green

melons and nectarines. A great success and a value

at this price.

96 Karl Erbes 2006 rziger Wrzgarten

Riesling Auslese * * *

Goldkap (Mosel-Saar-Ruwer); $53/375 ml.

Rich and sweet yet without excessive weight,

Erbes three-star auslese goldkap features beautifully

delineated aromas and flavors of dried apricots,

ripe peaches and pineapples as well as great

minerality and freshness. The finish is virtually

endless. Imported by Chapin Cellars, LLC.

95 Laetitia 2006 Reserve Pinot Noir

(Arroyo Grande Valley); $40. Laetitias

best reserve ever. In a word, gorgeous. Theres

a soft silkiness, a caressingly smooth mouthfeel

that just seduces the palate into submission. Then

the deliciousness sinks in, all red currants, cherries,

mocha, licorice, pepper and smoke, set off with

fine acidity and tannins. So compulsively drinkable,

you cant keep your hands off it. Best now

through 2010.

94 Robert Karl 2005 Syrah (Columbia

Valley); $29. This is Washington

Syrah at its most distinctive. The fruit stands out

with tart and tangy flavors of boysenberry, raspberry

and a tartness reminiscent of cranberry.

There are streaks of meat, smoke and bacon, and

the acids are clean. This is a glorious food wine,

but so juicy, assertive and delicious that it almost

demands to be drunk on its own. Will it evolve in

the cellar? Probably, but its hard to keep your

hands off it long enough to find out.

95 Col dOrcia 2004 Olmaia Cabernet

(SantAntimo); $75. Olmaia is a pure

expression of Cabernet Sauvignon that hits all the

right marks. You can taste the varietys natural flavors

but they never seem green or medicinal.

Instead the wine is plush, soft, round and opulent,

with ideal harmony and balance and beautiful

delivery of chocolate, cherry, vanilla and herbal

aromas. The wine almost exaggerates, if possible,

its generosity and roundness. Imported by Palm

Bay International.

96 Williams Selyem 2005 Flax Vineyard

Pinot Noir (Russian River

Valley); $54. A brilliant young Pinot that magically

combines instant drinkability with ageworthiness.

Silky and supple, the wine has broad, deep

raspberry, cherry, cola, cocoa and spice flavors that

are wrapped into sweet, fine tannins, leading to a

long, complicated finish. Just gorgeous from the

first sniff to the last sip, and should age well

through 2015.

94 JLC 2004 Syrah (Columbia Valley);

$25. Often in Washington a bit of Syrah

is blended into Cabernet; this cleverly reverses it

with 10% Cabernet Sauvignon added to the Spofford

Station estate vineyard grapes. Its got a lush

fruit base, with strong flavors of silage and compost

the sort of biodynamically-induced funk

that marks Cayuse wines. This is stylistic and distinctive,

but not for everyone. I love the depth,

the texture and the lengthits not just about the

fruit.

93 Calera 2006 Chardonnay (Mount

Harlan); $25. Brilliant Chardonnay,

compulsively drinkable. Youll find a fabulous array

of flavors, ranging from pineapples, mangoes and

limes to lees- and oak-influenced smoke and

creamy vanilla. Theres also a juicy streak of crisp

acidity and a flinty tang of minerals in the finish.

Very fine.

94 Fonseca 2004 Quinta do Panascal

Vintage Port; $49. In the Fonseca

tradition, this is a hugely rich wine, very dense. It is

not all weight, with excellently integrated firm tannins

and a range of complex flavors, from nuts and

berry fruits to full frontal ripeness. There is some

dryness to finish. Imported by Kobrand.

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FOR MORE WINE RATINGS,

VISIT OUR WEB SITE AT

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93 Gloria Ferrer 2001 Royal Cuve

(Carneros); $35. Royal Cuve is usually

Gloria Ferrers best bubbly, and so it is with

this bottling, a worthy followup to the past several

vintages. Very finely structured, it shows appealing

flavors of cherries, citrus fruits and vanilla, and is

so rich, its almost like a table wine. Addictively

good now. Watch it change as it warms in the glass.

93 Pacific Rim 2007 Wallula Vineyard

Biodynamic Riesling (Columbia

Valley); $32. This vineyard has been Demeter

certified biodynamic, one of just a handful in

Washington to achieve that recognition. Its all

natural, ripe and full-flavored, with a wonderful,

mouthfilling intensity. The flavors are a lovely mix

of stone, yeast, flower and a jumble of citrus and

apple fruits.

93 Finca Coronado 2004 Vino de la

Tierra de Castilla; $34. Fans of

Miguel Angel de Gregorios Finca Allende wines

from Rioja will want to snap up this excellent,

lush-styled blend of Graciano, Merlot and Petit

Verdot from La Mancha. This wine almost proves

that talent is as important as terroir, because no

other La Mancha wine features this grape blend,

these rich and pure medicinal flavors, and a

smooth-handed sense of balance that calls for

drinking now through 2013. Imported by Jorge

Ordoez Selections.

93 Pratesi 2005 Carmione (Toscana);

$35. The intensity of this powerhouse

Cabernet Sauvignon, Cabernet Franc and Merlot

blend is outstanding, and so is the density of its

aromas. It presents a solid wall of blackberry, dark

chocolate, pipe tobacco and cigar box. Its bold and

syrupy and overwhelms the palate with its enormous

bounty. Imported by Winebow.

95 Chteau Branaire-Ducru 2005

Saint-Julien; $80. This is opulent, but

with restraint. The fruit is rich, black and delicious.

Touches of spice and wood are present, lending

complexity to the ripe fruits and balanced tannins.

Impressive.

92 Maycas del Limari 2005 Reserva

Especial Syrah (Limar Valley);

$20. For a first vintage out of northerly Limar

Valley, this Concha y Toro effort from winemaker

Marcelo Papa exceeds any reasonable expectations.

Its an exotic, unique version of perfectly

ripe, healthy Syrah from a perfect Chilean vintage.

It steamrolls with maxed-out wild berry fruit, a saturated

feel and backbone. Enjoy now and over the

next few years. Imported by Banfi Vintners.

93 Novelty Hill 2006 Stillwater Creek

Vineyard Viognier (Columbia Valley);

$20. From the first sniff you know its Viognier

and you cant wait to splash around in itits

just got that indefinable mix of flower, perfume,

citrus rind and stone fruit that typifies the finest

Washington Viogniers. The flavors are beautifully

defined, racy and sharp, walking the high wire

between bitter and hot with amazing grace and

dexterity.

97 Arista 2005 Ferrington Vineyard

Pinot Noir (Anderson Valley);

$54. Showing the superb structure of the vintage

and the spectacular way this great vineyard can

ripen Pinot Noir, this polished wine is not only

delicious from the get-go, but ageable. Floods the

mouth with lush black cherry, red currant, cola,

sweet oak, anise, vanilla and cinnamon spice flavors

that go on and on. A memorable wine that

should slowly gather steam and peak by 2011, then

begin a long, steady arc downward.

95 Charles Creek 2004 La Vista

Stagecoach Vineyard Cabernet

Sauvignon (Napa Valley); $55. This is a deft

Cabernet, the opposite of the modern cult style,

better defined by what it is not. Its a brilliantly

structured wine, with a firm architecture of tannins

and acids. The flavors of blackberries, currants,

cedar and spice are deeply satisfying. Drink

now and for the next six years.

93 La Braccesca 2004 Bramasole

Syrah (Cortona); $38. Delicious,

sweet-smelling and gorgeous, this Syrah from Cortona

exhibits flawless aromas of ripe blueberry,

spice, bacon and tobacco. The extraction is excellent

and so is the intensity of its mouthfeel.

Imported by Ste. Michelle Wine Estates.

96 Roessler 2005 Clos Pepe Vineyard

Pinot Noir (Sta. Rita Hills); $50.

Clos Pepe is one of those vineyards that rarely fails

to dazzle, and Roessler has done as good a job at

interpreting it as any of the wineries that designate

its fruit. The wine shows a terrific balance of

acids, oak and tannins, with an elegantly silky texture

and exquisitely ripe, but controlled, cherry,

pomegranate, cola, tea and Asian spice flavors that

finish with a lip-smacking, chalky minerality.

96 Sineann 2006 Resonance Reserve

Pinot Noir (Willamette Valley);

$72. This is Sineanns first reserve, a limited

release from some old vine blocks from one of Oregons

greatest Pinot vineyards, now fully biodynamic.

As good as the regular Resonance is, this

ramps it up another notch or two. The fruit ranges

from cherry to prune; the acids are perfect, the

barrel notes so well-concealed that you cannot

separate them out. Streaks of cherry, fig, coffee,

smoke, chocolate, Bourbon, caramelwhere do

you stop? It just goes and goes. Phenomenal winemaking.

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93 Joh. Jos. Prm 2006 Wehlener

Sonnenuhr Riesling Sptlese

(Mosel-Saar-Ruwer); $41. Manfred Prm

looks to have followed up his amazing 2005s with

2006s that come close in quality. The 2006 WS

sptlese shows a certain reserved minerality on the

nose, but opens up into a gorgeously layered

palate of apple, vanilla and citrus flavors. Its

medium-bodied but zesty and fresh at the same

that its creamy and rich. And theres plenty of concentration

and length on the finish. Imported by

Valckenberg International, Inc.

96 Testarossa 2006 Cuve Niclaire

Pinot Noir (California); $75. Of all

Testarossas 2006 Pinots, this is the most complex,

and also the most ageworthy. Offers a flood of

cherry, red currant, Dr. Pepper, raspberry, licorice,

vanilla cookie and oaky spice flavors that are fantastically

intense and interesting. This bottling is

one of Testarossas highest-alcohol Pinots. Great

now and for a good six more years.

95 Vall Llach 2005 Priorat; $85. For

the second vintage in a row, Vall Llachs

signature red blend is out on its own. The bouquet

is round and deep, with alluring cola, mint

and blackberry aromas. The palate is alive but still

quite dark, with huge black plum and blackberry

flavors. Super long on the finish, with a subtle

streak of vanilla and coconut. Delicious but also

deft. 450 cases produced. Imported by Folio Fine

Wine Partners.

95 Saxum 2005 James Berry Vineyard

(Paso Robles); $55. Solidly in

the Saxum style, which is to say a high alcohol

(15.5%), massively flavored wine of enormous concentration

and power. The blackberry, cherry, cassis

and chocolate flavors have all kind of overtones,

ranging from licorice and vanilla to gingerbread

and candied violets. Saxum has become a cult

favorite, one of the highest-priced brands from

Paso Robles, and wines like this are the reason

why. Drink now and through 2008. Syrah,

Mourvdre and Grenache.

92 Domaine Chignard 2006 Cuve

Spciale (Fleurie); $25. Theres an

explosion of rich, intense fruit here: dried prunes,

black plums and even some licorice. The wine is

attractively edged with wood, giving a fine, ripe

finish. Imported by Kermit Lynch Wine Merchant.

93 Muruve 2004 lite (Toro); $38. A

top-flight Toro that knows how to step on

the gas but keep the car centered. Aromas of dried

lavender, violets, coffee and black fruit come

together marvelously, while the palate is dark as

Mud Cake but still loaded with tasty blackberry

and black currants. Pure and strapping, and giving

all the oomph that Toro is known for. Imported

by Universal Wines & Spirits.

94 Chaleur Estate 2006 Blanc

(Columbia Valley); $34. Rich and

smoky, this Sauvignon Blanc-Smillon blend delivers

a nose suggesting golden raisins, ripe figs,

white peaches and light streaks of butter, honey

and caramel. The fruit and wood are balanced and

the alcohol is a moderate 13.5%. Everything here

is in proportion, layered, smooth and seductive.

More than past vintages, this is a Chaleur Blanc

that seems destined to age and develop over the

next decade or more.

93 Parducci 2004 True Grit Petite

Sirah (Mendocino); $25. Parduccis

03 True Grit was a sensation. The 04 is a worthy

successor. Dry, tannic and amazingly rich, it floods

the mouth with blackberry, cherry, currant,

leather, coffee, carob and peppery spice flavors

that go on and on in the finish. Like any great

young Petite Sirah, it will age for many years.

93 De Bortoli 2006 Noble One Botrytis

Smillon (New South Wales);

$32/375 ml. This wines deep brassy color suggests

honey, and the aromas of honey, dried apricots,

vanilla and baking spices reinforce that

suggestion of sweetness. On the palate, it delivers

honeyed richness and a complex array of flavors

balanced by decent acidity. It remains the standard

bearer for Australian botrytis wines.

Imported by De Bortoli Wines USA Inc.

93 Januik 2006 Elerding Vineyard

Chardonnay (Columbia Valley);

$25. Sharp, dense, tight and oaky; this has a lot

of plump pineapple, apple and sweet citrus fruit.

There is a wonderful mix of spice, herb, fruit and

acid. Deep and focused, this wine has serious

guts and the flavors last a good long time.

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94 Chteau Lagrange 2005 Saint-

Julien; $70. The tannins dominate this

dark, brooding wine. At this stage, it seems to have

closed up, leaving the fruit and acidity buried. But

with this concentration, the future looks promising.

There is long aging potential here. Imported

by Chteau Lagrange.

92 Flechas de los Andes 2006 Gran

Malbec (Uco Valley); $22. Big-format

Malbec is what were calling this new 15.5%

wine from Benjamin de Rothschild and Laurent

Dassault, original partners in Michel Rollands

Clos de los Siete project. Round, lush and full of

body, Flechas shows muscle but little fat. Its colorful,

dark, full of black fruit and long on the finish.

It is modern Malbec done for modern palates.

Imported by Opici Import Company.

93 Kendall-Jackson 2006 Highland

Estates Camelot Highlands

Chardonnay (Santa Maria Valley); $25.

Just might be the best $25 Chard out there. Gorgeous

and dramatic in opulence, with a creamy

texture, and tremendous in ripe tropical fruit,

smoky oak and vanilla flavors. Theres a long, honeyed,

buttercreamy finish.

93 Mas de Daumas Gassac 2006 Vin

de Pays de la Haute Valle du

Gassac; $40. White currants and yellow fruit

aromas are followed by a rich, exotic display of flavors,

stone fruits, green herbs, apricot skins and a

touch of wood. This is a complex wine, certainly

young now, a wine that demands attention as well

as aging. Imported by Lauber Imports.

93 Greenwood Ridge 2006 Scherrer

Vineyards Zinfandel (Sonoma

County); $25. Greenwood Ridge does a terrific

job with Scherrers Alexander Valley Zin grapes,

capturing the intensity of these century vines while

maintaining balance. The flavors are powerful, of

wild summer red, blue and black berries, crushed

pepper, Asian spices, crme de cassis, licorice and

cola. Enjoy this potent wine now through 2014,

before it loses its fruit.

92 TerraMater 2005 Altum Single

Vineyard Shiraz (Maipo Valley);

$22. Smooth as perfectly blended chocolate on

the nose, with exceedingly comfortable yet ripe

black-fruit aromas. The palate is luscious and just

chewy enough, but with good spine and balance.

Finishes with an alert blaze of oak and lots of

length. As good a Chilean Syrah as youre likely to

find. Imported by A to Z Importers.

93 Rudi Pichler 2006 Wsendorfer

Kollmtz Weissburgunder

Smaragd (Wachau); $41. An impressive wine,

a real star, with its honeyed aromas, rounded green

fruits and a concentration of power that is balanced

with acidity and a light, floating aftertaste.

Imported by Vin Divino.

94 Boudreaux Cellars 2005 Merlot

(Washington); $40. Whether by

virtue of vintage or bottle variation, Boudreaux

wines seem to gyrate a bit wildly when first

released. This new 2005 is no exception. At first

sniff it explodes into life, the aromas a mix of

herb, spice, tar, smoke, earth and fruit. Flavors

are threaded together into a seamless, saturated

wholeplum, cassis and cherry liqueur up front,

earth and tannin right behind. Some tasters may

find it leaning toward the medicinal, but for those

who love Rob Newsoms full-speed-ahead style,

this is a gorgeous bottle.

94 Mazzei 2004 Tenuta Belguardo

(Maremma); $60. This top-notch

blend of Cabernet Sauvignon and Cabernet Franc

from Mazzeis beautiful Maremma property boasts

thick, modern concentration and pretty renderings

of red fruit, vanilla and exotic spice. It has

excellent texture in the mouth and is velvety and

lively at the same time. Imported by Palm Bay

International.

93 Domaine Vincent Dauvissat 2005

Fort Premier Cru (Chablis); $44.

This shows how Dauvissats wines need to age. At

the moment, this is closed up, only hinting at its

almost tropical richness, ripe yellow fruits and

some white currants, but still kept in balance with

acidity and minerality. Imported by Vineyard

Brands.

92 Wise 2005 Reserve Chardonnay

(Pemberton); $27. Featuring a voluptuous

nose of stone fruit and citrus framed by

roasted nuts and toasty oak, this is a rich, amply

endowed Chardonnay with a big personality and

bold flavors. Ripe peach notes join with citrus,

hazelnuts and toast on the long finish. Drink now.

Imported by The Australia-New Zealand Wine

Connection.

92 Carpineto 2004 Riserva (Chianti

Classico); $27. This is a lovely riserva

with thick and penetrating tones of cherry, spice

and colathe holy trinity of traditional Chianti

Classico. The wine is dense, concentrated and

intense without being too powerful or overwhelming.

It would make an excellent companion to veal

in a wine reduction sauce because of the natural

succulence and structure. Imported by Opici

Import Company.

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92 Saint Clair 2007 Wairau Reserve

Sauvignon Blanc (Marlborough);

$27. Saint Clairs reserve and single-block bottlings

are consistently top-notch, and this concentrated

Sauvignon maintains that tradition. Scents

of fresh herbs, nectarine and pineapple give way to

intense flavors of stone fruit. Its medium- to fullbodied,

with a long finish thats fresh without being

overly herbal. Drink through the end of 2008.

Imported by Winesellers Ltd.

97 Chteau Cos dEstournel 2005

Saint-Estphe; $250. Saint-Estphe

has a reputation for tannins, and this 2005 Cos

lives up to that. But it does much more, because

the tannins add richness along with intensely ripe

black fruits, dark plums and figs. The dense

tannins are finely balanced with fresh acidity and a

long-lasting aftertaste. Impressive.

92 Beresan 2006 Smillon (Walla

Walla); $18. This is a really luscious

wine100% varietalwith unusual richness. The

flavors are dense and detailed, a mix of sweet

grain, clover and beeswax along with lychee, pear,

white peach and pink grapefruit. Smooth and fullbodied,

it keeps on going through a lingering,

lightly honeyed finish. The label is a colorful drawing

of a blonde angel surrounded by stars.

95 Von Strasser 2005 Sori Bricco

Vineyard Red Wine (Diamond

Mountain); $70. From one of the oldest vineyards

on Diamond Mountain, this Bordeaux blend

is impressively powerful and balanced. Based on

Cabernet, with small quantities of Merlot, Cab

Franc and Petit Verdot, it has oak-influenced black

and red currant, cassis, cherry, spicy plum pudding

and sweet, smoky vanilla flavors, with a cedar,

pencil-lead note reminiscent of a fine Pauillac.

Lush now, it should develop well through 2015.

94 Numanthia-Termes, S.L. 2005

Numanthia (Toro); $60. Worn

leather, hickory and earth scents accent the deep

fruit that Numanthia is known for. But its the polished

mouthfeel and consistent delivery of flavor

and texture on this 05 that distinguishes it from so

many big bombers from Toro. By the time its

done you hardly feel the tannins on the finish,

which lingers comfortably for minutes. Excellent

wine to drink over the next six years. Imported by

Jorge Ordoez Selections.

95 Jean-Baptiste Adam 2005 Slection

de Grains Nobles Gewrztraminer

(Alsace); $90/500 ml. With its

distinctive bouquet of rose petals and lychee fruit,

this dessert wines Gewrztraminer character

shines clearly through a modest veil of botrytis. Its

sweet and viscous without being overly heavy, with

a long, spice-driven finish. Tremendous stuff, with

a wonderful sense of harmony and balance.

Imported by Billington Imports.

95 Tenuta Sette Ponti 2005 Oreno

(Toscana); $93. A blockbuster wine

with finely tuned renderings of coffee, tobacco,

spice and leather, Oreno requires a rare steak

cooked on a mesquite grill or something similarly

big and bold. In the mouth, this Sangiovese-Merlot-

Cabernet blend delivers loads of spice that

leaves a lasting impression thanks its firm tannins.

Drink after 2010. Imported by Kobrand.

95 Breggo 2006 Savoy Vineyard

Pinot Noir (Anderson Valley);

$55. If you know Goldeneyes new Gowen Creek

bottling, this is a near identical Pinot, and little

wonder, for the vineyards are right next to each

other. This wine dazzles with exotic, feral notes of

wild blackberries and blueberries, and forest

scents of pine needle, roasted mushroom, grilled

meat, chocolate, anise, cinnamon, nutmeg and

coriander. New oak adds even richer nuances of

smoky caramel and vanilla to this compelling wine.

94 Chteau Brane-Cantenac 2005

Margaux; $70. The fruit has become

the main attraction herelayers of ripeness, tempered

with an elegant smoothness. The tannins

are certainly present in this powerful wine, but

they are here to lend support, not dominate. With

herbs and very clean black fruits, this is a wine to

follow.

92 Passing Clouds 2005 Reserve Shiraz

(Bendigo); $30. Like the 2003,

this is a big, no-holds-barred Shiraz. The 2005 is

packed with cassis and blueberry fruit, framed by

chocolate and vanilla notes and finishes with

plenty of spicy complexity and some slightly rough

tannins. Drink 20102020. Imported by Southern

Starz, Inc.

96 Ojai 2005 Fe Ciega Vineyard

Pinot Noir (Sta. Rita Hills); $56.

This wine is as fine as anything from Santa Rita

Hills. Although its young and tight now, its future

is assured by the brilliant combination of audacious

fruit and classic structure. The blackberry,

currant, cherry, anise and clove flavors are

wrapped into rich, silky tannins and brightened

with crisp acidity. Best now, with decanting, and

for the next 68 years.

93 Chteau La Lagune 2004 Haut-

Mdoc; $45. The freshness of 2004 is

the hallmark of this deliciously ripe but elegant

wine. It is packed with juicy red berry fruits, giving

richness but vibrant acidity.

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